Oradour stands today much as it did after the Germans left and is a memorial to the town and to the suffering of all those who shared a similar fate at the hands of the German army in the second war. Oradour was not the only town to have witnessed these massacres but it does stand testimony to the outrage. It is a place that one should visit just once in a lifetime.
There is an excellent exhibition which sets the historical mood for the events leading up to the 10 June; the rise of the Nazi movement, the annexation of Northern France, the Resistance and the reprisals, such as the one at Oradour, for attacks by the Resistance. You then go out into the town.
Here I had a bit of a quandary; it seemed ghoulish to take photographs, somehow inappropriate. Yet I know that the right photo can say so much more than words, especially when like me I’m not so eloquent. I found I only took half a dozen shots which mattered, unlike my usual trigger happy self. The rest of the time, Amanda and I wandered through the ruins of the buildings, trying to comprehend it all. The church was the worst part of it all, where the women and children were taken and only one survived. Yet having said all that, the town felt like a stage set, almost waiting for the director to shout action on a scene. It wasn’t until you got to the monument in the cemetery and saw the faces of the victims on the tombs and their names on the walls that it became tangible and real.
It is incomprehensible to imagine that anyone could be party to such atrocity and Oradour was preserved as a memorial to the people of the town and as a reminder that such things should not happen again. Unfortunately in this world, it does. What is it in the mind of mankind that these things did and still do happen and how can any individual reconcile themselves to such actions? I, for one, will never understand.
Go to http://www.oradour.info/ if you want to know more and how the town rebuilt itself, literally from the ashes.
So, from the sombre to the rest of the week’s news.
It’s hot. Finally after a week of cold, stormy weather, the sun has arrived and it’s lovely out. So much so that we’re indoors for the shade. Can’t win!
Amanda had another trip to the doctor this week and came away loaded with inhalers and steroids. Hell, she’ll be throwing me over her shoulder before long! They do however seem to be doing the trick and she’s a lot better and obviously a lot happier. So am I, it’s all been a bit of a worry.
We haven’t really done anything of note over the past few days, some walking, cycling for me, the odd trip out, usually to get some cycling bits for my little trip. We did go into Limoges, primarily to see the Cathedral and the museum. We parked by the old bridge at the foot of the cathedral walls and had a wander around the lovely gardens there. Unfortunately, the
two buildings of destination were both closed for major restoration, so we were stymied on that score. So we went in search of lunch, which we found in the old merchant’s quarter in the shadow of the Cathedral. There we discovered a large Irish pub (they crop up everywhere!) which we refused to go into, followed by a charming French restaurant which we did go into. And what a find. A very small affair, simple and buzzing with atmosphere from the local residents having their lunch. Always a good sign! We sat for ten minutes or so, no menus on the table, then the owner came up and set down a chalkboard on an easle for us to see. There were four dishes and four deserts, which he proceeded to describe in detail, telling us that it was all fresh and made “a la maison”. We chose a superb quiche Provencal followed by crème brule. The meal was simple, beautifully cooked and the ambience just brilliant. Our host was charming. It couldn’t have been better. A real gem of a find.
Limoges was less so. After the Cathedral quarter it was just another city so we didn’t stay long. We also found having to stare at the ground rather than around us in order to avoid all the dog poo somewhat galling. It was everywhere, and not just in the back streets. I saw one lovely young lady with a very nice bearing to her walk nearly come a right cropper when she slipped in some she didn’t see. I was tempted to say “I just did that” but she might have rubbed my nose in it. I know, it’s an old joke, and tenuous in the extreme, but I couldn’t resist.
On Wednesday we went to the big market at Piegut-Pluviers. We were told it was one of those must see things so off we went. We arrived, parked up and wandered into the town and there were some market stalls. Looks promising! Then there were some more, then more again. The whole of the main street, at a guess about half a mile was given over to the market and some side streets besides. There was all sorts there, regional producers, haberdashery, a couple selling English cheese (not doing too much trade it has to be said – but then in the face of very stiff competition!), fishmongers, stalls selling every bit of a duck imaginable (eek). It was almost overwhelming, but a riot of colour, noise and bustle. Absolutely brilliant. As were the prices. Boy oh boy. Now, we have come to realise that France is no longer a cheap place to live. Food prices are greater than in the UK as are most household goods etc. But there seemed to be a premium on the goods sold at this market. Whether it has a reputation for being a tourist market and therefore prices are adjusted accordingly I don’t know, but you really had to shop carefully! That didn’t stop us spending a king’s ransom on cheese (including a four-year-old Cantal that most Brits would have thrown out as manky and is totally divine) as well as some strawberries de la region. I also got Amanda’s birthday present from an British couple who live in their Bedford motorhome and tour the markets selling Thai jewellery. We hope to catch up with them in the near future for a meal or some such. Nice couple. It got me to thinking about doing something similar with the things I can get in Nepal, especially from my friend Tenzin, who makes wicked bags! Might just give it a bit more thought. Could be fun and that’s what this life is all about! Plus the fact it would mean a shopping trip to Kathmandu!! J
Today we went to visit my parents for lunch at their caravan. Mum made a great pasta dish, accompanied by lots of delicious, crispy baguette bread. As we began to eat we became aware of a menacing presence – the hens were on the rampage. I was mugged for my bread, Mum’s bread disappeared from her plate in a daring smash and grab raid. Vigilance was the only weapon; nothing scared these monsters from their persuit of bakery products. At one point we gave them a piece away from the van and it was comical watching them squabble and run away with it in turn. It kept them away from the table in the meantime!
OK, time to light the BBQ for supper, so that’s it for now. Don’t know when the next post will be as I am off on my cycling odyssey to catch up with Andy. The route is planned and I’m scheduling about a week to get to the Spanish border (about 550km). I have a tent and all the trappings, the bike’s ready to go and so am I – mostly. It’s been a while since I rode properly and I’ve never done a tour so we’ll have to see what happens. I am really looking forward to it though and I know I’ll be going through some superb countryside. I have my journal and camera, so I can do a full report when I get back! In the meantime, Amanda and I will have to write separate logs! I think she’s looking forward to having some time off from me!
Cheers for now



