It’s Christmas Eve! And we’re sat in a very cosy motorhome, dinner is cooking and we’re watching the totally wonderful film ‘Polar Express’ and feeling very festive. Tonight is Weihnachten here in Austria, which is when Christmas is celebrated rather than tomorrow, as it would be in the UK. In Seefeld tonight there is Christmas market and there’s plenty of Gluhwein and traditional foods to be had. The locals will be having a big family meal with, I’m told, lots of alcohol and then they’ll be opening their Christmas gifts. It sounds great, so we’ll probably do the same! There’s quite some snow around so we will definitely be having a white Christmas.
There was some question as to whether we’d actually get here and the past week or two hasn’t been without its stresses. Just before we set out we learnt that a new directive had been put in place in Austria that all vehicles over 7.5t should have snow tyres fitted and carry snow chains. After some consideration we decided we’d risk the 10km or so from the German border to Seefeld; the road is always clear so snow wasn’t an issue. The journey from Calais to Seefeld is all motorway except the last 30 miles, so that bit was easy. We managed it in four days with a stop-over with our friends the Schluechtermanns in Neckargemund
It was lovely to see them again and we had a lovely, if not far too brief, stay with them. We went to a concert on the evening we arrived (Saturday) where a number of Ingo’s choirs were singing at the Christmas ‘do’ of a nearby village. It was just brilliant! The hall was laid out with long trestle tables (very German!), the ceiling was covered in bright white fairy lights and there was table service for food and drink. We met some new people as well as some we had met in the summer. There was fun and chat and food and drink and kids running around – great! The concert was good. Ingo is quite obviously a good tutor and conductor as the choirs, from kids (Nelly and Emily in that one) to pensioners were very good. After the singing there were three short sketches that, even though we didn’t understand what was being said, was very funny just by the mannerisms.
At the end came the big raffle. In actual fact there were two: one a tombola type of affair with a huge array of prizes donated by local businesses, then the big one, with some fabulous prizes to be won. In the tombola, Amanda won a bottle of wine and some sort of smelly bathroom bag and the Schluechtermanns were piling up the prizes! Then came the big draw. Emily, the youngest girl, was one of three ticket pickers and actually drew one of her own numbers. Leander, who was sitting on my knee along with Mattis, went up to collect it for her, to her obvious delight. It was a great big thermos coffee maker.
The last prize was a lovely, hand made bird table. There had been one each year for the six years the event had been running and Ingo coveted it like nothing else and was quite vocal in his desire to win it, making quips and gags and entertaining the folks! He didn’t, much to his disappointment. But the man that did said he had no room, even for such a lovely thing and that seeing as how Herr Schluechtermann desperately wanted it and in light of all the stirling work he had done with the choir, he would give it to him! Ingo, delighted, gave a very nice speech of gratitude over the PA system.
And that wound up the evening. We transferred the haul of goodies and children to the MPV and went home, leaving Ingo to pack up his gear. I returned in the MPV to collect him. It was 1am by the time I got to bed, but glowing from a delightful evening among friends in such a warm atmosphere. You can’t beat a good celebration!
The following morning, Amanda was feeling decidedly poorly with the cold bug she had been fighting and so didn’t join everyone for breakfast. As usual, I found myself at the children’s end of the table, as Mattis insisted I sat next to him. I love it, an that’s coming from someone who doesn’t usually like kids! After breakfast we managed to get Floozie2 out of her parking lot (quite a squeeze!) and we said our goodbyes. It had been all too short a visit and part of us didn’t want to go.
We drove on to a service area south of Munich for the night, which gave us a short hop to Seefeld the following day. I was still worked up about the new tyre regulations in Austria, worried that even when we got there, these new tyres on Floozie2 would be hopeless on the snow and ice of the camp-site and we wouldn’t actually be able to pitch & paranoid about the gearbox. It had been acting a bit funny so I had checked the oil. It showed empty. Checked for leaks – nothing apparent. It took four litres to top it up. I’m hoping that no lasting damage has been done during the miles I have already done, although fifth to fourth gear change is by no means smooth. Having just had the box fully serviced it’s all a bit disappointing. Whilst happy with the service I got in Scotland, I do wonder if the box hadn’t been filled properly. Four litres is a lot to go missing. I was beginning to think that our trip to Seefeld was extremely ill-fated and that we should be going somewhere else! But not wanting to quit, we carried nervously on. The last few miles were interesting too, as we noticed weight restriction signs for HGVs on our route into Austria. Sitting in a lay-by, wondering what to do, I saw a number of HGVs using the road and thought if they can use them, so can we. So we decided to something about these signs. We ignored them! It’s one of those times when we don’t consider ourselves to be ‘commercial’ HGV and just go for it. Looks like a number of our German friends here on the campsite thought the same way. Normal tyres on their, would you believe, bigger homes than ours!
So we got here, pitched up and got settled without any problems at all. Well, bar one. I had organised myself so we could put a gas hook-up on Floozie2. Everything connected up lovely, switched on the gas – nothing. There wasn’t enough actual gas flow coming through their pipe-work to get through the American gas regulator. So we have to rely on our own tank and no, we didn’t top up before we got here. No, we don’t learn!
ANYWAY, that’s enough of the doom and gloom. It’s Christmas and we’re here and that’s all that matters. We got here on the 22nd and the following day, yesterday, we went to Innsbruck on the train in the hopes we might just catch the last moments of the lead up to Christmas in the Old Town. And boy, did we ever! The Old town is a maze of five and six storey, C15th & C16th merchants’ houses and is all pedestrianised. There’s some wonderful architecture and painted houses and the buildings tower over narrow streets in true medieval style. At street level there’s a myriad of cute shops and cafes, designer shops and gift emporiums, all bustling with Christmas shoppers. Amanda bought a felt garland saying “Frohe Weihnachten” – (Merry Christmas) in one of them.
Then you step out into the main square and it is filled with little wooden huts selling gifts and food. Drawn inevitably towards the food, we discovered a stall selling Spätzle. Three flavours of it. Now, Spätzle is something I’ve come to love on our travels through Austria, Germany and Switzerland. It’s basically a very small dumpling (the mixture is passed through a sieve, dropping into water to cook) and it’s then treated to a sauce. Yesterday’s examples were cheese and spinach and ham. Some larger Spätzle were also fried. Unable to decide, I asked if we could have a mix of all three. With a smile and a flourish of ladles, I was presented with a huge, steaming mound of the requested trio, topped with Parmesan and fried onions – and two forks! Stood at high bar-like tables in the cold air, chomping through our delicious, warming lunch and listening to and watching everyone around us, we soon found we were wearing ear-to-ear grins!
The little wooden huts were everywhere, huddled in small pockets wherever there was space. I guess in all there were over a hundred of them selling handicrafts, both local and foreign, sweets, chocolate, pastries and Gluhwein. Lots and lots of Gluhwein! It seemed churlish not to sample some. We met Santa, wandering the streets pushing what looked like a pram. Crikey, I thought, Santa’s down on his luck. The pram, however, turned out to be a miniature barrel organ with which he entertained the kids. He also magically produced small gifts for them from underneath it, much to their delight.
Throughout the streets, hanging from windowsills, are tableaux of fairy tales; the Princess and the Frog, Little Red Riding Hood, Pinocchio and lots more. One large house had the numbers 1 to 25 in each of its windows and had transformed itself into a festive advent calendar! (Check out the latest photos on the link to the side.) There were also some huge giants standing around too; brilliant papier-mache things, very reminiscent of ‘It’s a Knock Out’. I couldn’t find out what they were all about so just enjoyed them.
After all the fresh air (and the mulled wine) the journey back on the very warm train was incredibly sleep inducing and we both nodded off. Not ideal if you want to get off at the right station!
Christmas Eve dawned bright with blue skies. The mountains look spectacular and this place is all a bit magical. Last time we were here, four – no five- years ago, the weather was different. It was a lot, lot colder for a start and there was more snow on the ground. It is so warm at the moment, there’s a bit of a thaw on. Last time, we were never out of ski pants and jackets, hats and gloves, where as now, if we’re walking it’s almost too warm to have a coat on. Climate change?? If so, it’s the only thing that has changed. Seefeld still has the lovely feel to it as it did five years ago and we recognise some faces from then too; Edith and her Ice Bar, the guy from whom we bought our skis. It’s all very comfortable. The beautiful people come here; there’s a lot of fur (fake I hope) and designer clothes being paraded. In fact, Seefeld has more than its fair share of designer outlets. Browsing the shops had me whistling at the price tags and the occasional, full blown Yorkshire “Bugger me” thrown in for good measure. Needless to say I won’t be adding to my wardrobe here.
We walked through the woods into town today and had a nice lunch. All the cafes and restaurants allow dogs in, so Pooch dutifully lay under our table as we scoffed soup and Spätzle. Oh how I love that stuff!
Christmas Eve and we wandered into town sometime after 11pm to catch the worshipers coming out of the church to sing Christmas songs with the Seefelder Brass Band – all four of them! They stood on a balcony three stories up overlooking the church square and played a goodly number of tunes, the only one of which I recognised as Silent Night. There were about fifty others there in the cold, still air and it was a magical affair. I brought along a small thermos of Gluhwein, which complimented the proceedings nicely. It was the perfect start to Christmas.